Lately I haven’t cooked or eaten fish that often. There is no good excuse for this other than I have been confused about which fish is ‘correct’ and safe to eat. Many of you probably already know that we should be careful which salmon, shrimps and tuna we choose to eat, that we should really start to cook and eat other fish that are more sustainable and healthy. But that is not an easy task, as which fish to eat varies from country to country (and it can vary even in the same country).

I’m happy that one of my favorite fishes, mackerel, seems to be a safe choice, both in Sweden and the US . According to Vanessa Barrington, here on EcoSalon, Mackerel doesn’t have high levels of mercury (except for the king mackerel which has) and the fishing method used doesn’t damage the bottom of the sea. Mackerel has a rich flavor and you don’t really need to add much to enjoy this fish. It’s great in soups, filleted or cooked whole (see below) and can be roasted, baked or poached. You can also smoke or cure it.

Mackerel makes me long for summer, especially Swedish summers when the sun doesn’t go down until around 11pm. When I was a little girl we often went to the west coast to rent a boat and fish all day. Mostly we caught cod and mackerel but sometimes we also got garfish (not listed). In the evening when we all were hungry and tired we would get back on land or find some tiny unsettled rocky island, collect firewood and broil mackerel over an open fire. The whole fish was stuck on a wooden stick (cleaned and gutted) and just simply seasoned with salt and lemon.

Now this is not easily done every day but there are definitely ways to enjoy fish at home all year around. My latest recipe was created after I got inspired by Melissa Clark’s recent article on whole roasted fish. The article was such a great reminder that its about time I start to cook whole fish again.

Roasted Mackerel with Buttered Shallots
for two

one or two whole mackerel (about 1-1 ½ lb)
one lemon
freshly grounded pepper
a splash of olive oil
one shallot
10 sprigs of fresh thyme
about 2 oz butter

Clean and gut the mackerel. Take a paper towel to pat the fish dry. Rub inside and outside of the fish with one or two slices of lemon. Sprinkle salt and pepper all over the fish. Slice the rest of the lemon thinly and chop the shallots finely. Fill the stomach of the mackerel with some of the slices and leave about half for later when serving the fish. Place ½ of the shallot into the cavity together with a few sprigs of thyme. Place the fish in a greased baking pan. You can also bake on top of foil on a baking tray. Sprinkle some olive oil over and roast the fish at 400°F for about 20-30 minutes. The fish is done when the meat is white and the meat easily loosens from the bones.

While the fish roasts, melt about half of the butter and saute the shallots on a really low heat until soft. At the end add more butter and plenty of thyme.

Serve the fish with buttered shallots together with roasted vegetables such as parsnips and carrots. The mackerel is also great with a simple salad made of roasted red pepper, feta, watercress and toasted sunflower seeds.

Here is some more good stuff about fish…

The good Fish of the Pacific Coast by Becky Selengut

Seafood Watch (US) (check out their app for Android and iPhone)

WWFs fisk guide (Sweden)

This article was originally published at EcoSalon, 2 February 2012 

40 elderflower clusters
4 lemons, sliced
2 kg (just about 4 1/2 lb) sugar
2 liter (8 1/4 cup) water
30 gram citric acid

Pick the flowers. Wash the Elderflowers carefully and separate the tiny flowers from the stalk using a fork or a pair of scissors (optionally if you are lazy you may keep the stalks on). Place the flowers in a bucket together with the sliced lemons. Boil the water and pour in the sugar. When the sugar is dissolved add the citric acid to the water. Pour the sugar mixture over the flowers. Let stand covered for 3-4 days in a cool place. Strain and pour into clean glass bottles. Keep the bottles in a cold place. To store longer I recommend freezing the cordial. Dilute the cordial with still or sparkling water to your own taste.

Another successful treat I make, is to add the flowers or even the cordial as a flavor while curing trout. Its the same method and ratio as when you make gravlax.

Get my Elderflower Cured Trout recipe and read the whole article over at Honest Cooking (published 14 June 2011).

A week ago I was asked to be one of the contributers at Honest Cooking. This online culinary magazine started just a couple of weeks ago and the articles are written by food & drink writers, chefs and photographers etc from all over the world.  I think its a impressive work the editor Kalle Bergman and all the other contributers have done so far and I’m honored to be part of it. Yesterday my first post Squid with a Bite was launched.

(for two persons)

one whole mackerel
sea salt
a neutral oil

butter
one shallot, finely chopped
one teaspoon brown mustard seeds
fresh tarragon, chopped

Rinse the whole mackerel and fillet the fish. Keep the skin on the fillets. If necessary pull out the remaining bones with a pair of pliers. Salt the fillets and let them cure for about half an hour. I suggest you make a fish stock with the remaining parts such as the head and the bones (not the guts).

Fry the Mackerel fillets in the oil on both sides until meat is white. At the same time melt some butter in another pan and saute the chopped shallot on low heat until soft and transparent. Add mustard seeds and fresh tarragon. When the mustard starts to pop its done. If necessary, to your own taste, add some more butter. Pour over the mackerel fillets and serve immediately with, for example, the mustard sauce below and some fresh summer potatoes.

Mustard Sauce
(for one mackerel)

200 ml (little more than ¾ cup) sour cream
one teaspoon mustard
dill, chopped
some lemon juice
honey (optional)

Stir in mustard and dill into the sour cream. Season with lemon and honey.

I know I just shared another gravlax recipe, but I can’t help myself. This Elderflower flavored Gravlax on homemade “knäckebröd“, topped with my dear friend Ingela’s Lemon Sauce was an absolutely fabulous start to our Midsummer party! (Its the season for elderflower here in Sweden, at least in my neighbor’s horse-field.)

for the salmon

1 kilo (2 lb) salmon fillet
1 teaspoon crushed pepper
4 tablespoons salt
4 tablespoons sugar
8-10 clusters of elderflower

The salmon should be frozen at least 24 hours before you start (just in case there are parasites in the fish). Clean the salmon fillets of any bones but keep the skin. Wash the elder flowers and separate the tiny flowers from the stalk by using a fork or a pair of scissors. Mix together the salt, pepper and sugar. Rub the fillet with some of the mixture. Divide the rest of the mixture on top and add the cleaned elderflower. If you have two fillets, place them together, meat against meat with flowers in between. Place the fillet in a plastic freezer bag and close it carefully. Let the fillets rest in the fridge for 2 days and turn them now and again. (Thinner fillets can be done in 24 hours but thicker pieces need 48 hours to be ready to serve).
After 2 days, unwrap and clean the fillets. Start to slice the gravlax into thin diagonal slivers using a fillet knife (or any other sharp knife that you have in hand) starting at the small end of the fish. Gravlax can be stored in the fridge for nearly a week or longer in the freezer.

As a starter for my midsummer party I used about half of the fish, we were 7.

Ingela’s Lemon Sauce

At midsummer’s eve I asked Ingela (who is an excellent home chef) if she would like to make the sauce for the gravlax . I thought that a traditional mustard sauce might be too strong. Ingela agreed and did something like this…

first step

one teaspoon brown mustard seeds
4 whole black peppercorns
some salt
one tablespoon honey
fresh-cut oregano or other herb that gives character and freshness to the dressing

Crush mustard seeds, peppercorns and salt in a mortar. Stir in honey and the freshly cut oregano. Set aside.

mayonnaise

one egg yolk
1-2 teaspoons of a good white vinegar
50-100 ml (¼-½ cup)  rapeseed oil or other neutral oil
Whip the egg and at the same time drip the oil drop by drop into the egg mixture.
Now you have a mayonnaise…

and here is the ending twist…

Blend together the honey mustard mixture to the mayonnaise. Add some Greek yogurt, sour cream or cream fresh and season with lemon and maybe some salt and pepper.

Depending on what you are going to serve the sauce with, Ingela suggests that you can reduce the honey and instead use a small amount of Elderflower cordial or even Apple juice to create a fruitier sweetness.

I just became a Resident Alien. This I celebrated by making gravlax…

1 kilo (2 lb) salmon fillet
1 teaspoon crushed pepper
4 tablespoons salt
4 tablespoons sucanat or regular sugar
40 crushed juniper berries
lots of fresh dill

If you use fresh salmon you should  freeze it for at least 24 hours, to make sure that there are no parasites in the fish. Clean the salmon fillets of any bones but keep the skin. The skin makes it easier later on when you are going to slice it up. Crush the junipers in a mortar. Mix together with salt, pepper and sucanat. Rub the fillet with some of the mixture. Divide the rest of the mixture on top and add the dill. If you have two fillets, place them together, meat against meat with dill in between. Place the fillet in a plastic freezer bag and close it carefully. Let the fillets rest in the fridge for 1-2 days and turn them now and again. Thinner fillets can be done in 24 hours but thicker pieces need 48 hours to be ready to serve. Unwrap and clean the fillets. Start to slice the gravlax into thin diagonal slivers by using a fillet knife starting at the small end of the fish. Gravlax can be stored in the fridge for nearly a week or longer in the freezer.
This type of Gravlax I prefer to serve on a small piece of home made “knäckebröd” topped with Sabine’s lingoberry cream and decorated with new fresh dill.

See also my previous recipe on Gravlax…

Polish herring is a little different from the sweeter Swedish herring that I am used to.  The herring M grew up with is fresh and salty.  His specialty herring dish is simply served on lettuce, topped with sour cream and apple. Superb and excellent for an Easter buffet!

for the herring you need

1/2 lb (250 gr) matjes in oil or plain cured herring (most often German brands in NYC)
one butterhead lettuce
2/3 cup (150 ml) sour cream (or equal parts Greek yogurt and sour cream)
half an apple

Drain the herring and if necessary cut the herring into bite size pieces. Wash the lettuce and divide the leaves on a serving plate and place the herring neatly on top. Cut the apple in small pieces and mix them with sour cream. Spoon the sour cream mixture over the herrings. Serve with Swedish “knäckebröd” or dark bread.

* OK, this recipe have nothing to do with eggs, but you can have painted eggs with something else. Happy Easter!

Last summer we went to visit some new friends in Sweden. We were invited to dine under their old oak tree. The lady of the house, Sabine spoiled us with a number of unbelievable and unforgettable treats. One of them became my extra extra favorite: lingonberry cream with North Swedish caviar. Believe me when I say, lingonberries and caviar are a surprisingly good combination!

the cream
200 ml (almost a cup) Creme Fraiche
About two tea spoons of lingonberry or cranberry jam (not too sweet)
Red caviar (mild or slightly salty)

Mix the cream fraiche and the lingonberry jam together. The mixture should have just a slight taste of lingonberry and have a light pink color. Serve the caviar and lingonberries together with thin Swedish crisp bread (knäckebröd) or Finn Crisp.

For Thanksgiving I used my Raw stirred Cranberry Jam and served the caviar with gentle and soft Muscat wine.

Sabine’s version is slightly different from mine. She mixed the lingonberries with whipped cream and served it on a soft flatbread from the north of Sweden. The north Swedish caviar she served was very delicate and not so salty. I normally prefer this myself but I discovered that a slightly salty caviar blends well with the sweetness in the lingonberry cream.

Thanks Sabine and congratulations to your new cooking book, “Restresan”.

Some months ago we were celebrating our 90th birthday. We had champagne, caviar and blini – which ended up being a great combination for a great party!

M:s Blini

1/4 cup (60 ml) water
1 1/4 teaspoons fresh yeast
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup (237 ml) sifted wholewheat flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup (237 ml) milk
3 tablespoons butter
2 large eggs

Heat the up water to 110°F (about 43°C) using an oven thermostat. Stir together the warm water with yeast and sugar. Let the mixture stand for about five minutes until the mixture gets foamy (small wholes on the surface). This is important! If the mixture doesn’t foam you have to start all over with new yeast. Sorry!
Melt the butter and let it cool before using. Heat up the milk to 110°F (about 43°C) . Add first the flour and salt to the foamy mixture before you stir in the warm milk, the melted cooled butter and the slightly beaten eggs. Put the bowl in a larger pan that is filled with warm water (about 1 inch). Cover the bowl and let the mixture rise in a warm place for about 1 ½ – 2 hours. The mixture should then increase in volume and have bubbles on the surface. Stir the mixture before the next step.
Heat up a sauté pan with either butter or olive oil. Lower the heat. Make small blinis by using one tablespoon batter. Sauté for about two minutes on each side until the blinis gets a beautiful golden color. Keep them warm in the oven.

Serve the blinis with black caviar and creamy sour cream. (They also work well with gravlax)

M was very determined to make the blinis as delicate as possible. He did careful research and several tests before he was really happy. The result was created from this recipe…

We also tested several different kinds of caviar and our favorite for this occasion was a quite simple black caviar from Russ & Daughters in the East Village.

My friend Maria and I used to spend long evenings out in her garden, playing backgammon and smoking water pipe. At that time, we often start the evening by cooking something together, while listening to Middle East pop music and drinking some exotic tea. Well Maria spent over a year in the Middle East working at a rehabilitation center. In her free time she learnt scuba diving or went for long overnight walks in the desert all by her self. She must be one of the bravest persons I know.

This shrimp stew has nothing to do with Maria’s adventure in the Middle East. This stew is inspired by one of her original recipes. However I have changed it a bit. She made it as a creamy soup and it was perfectly suitable for our long early summer backgammon session in the garden.

half kg raw shrimps
two or three cloves of garlic
chili flakes
mustard seeds
½ teaspoon cumin powder
½ teaspoon coriander powder
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
three fresh tomatoes
one yellow onion
150-200 ml (0.6-0.85 cups) cream or heavy milk
paprika powder
thyme
fresh dill
one red pepper
salt and pepper
fresh cilantro

Heat up some olive oil and sauté one clove of chopped garlic together with some chili seeds. When the garlic starts to get a little yellow add the shrimps. Sauté on high temperature until they are done. Put the shrimps on the side and pour 150ml (0.6 cups) water in the sauté pan and let it boil for a minute. The liquid is going to be used later. Peel the shrimps when they become cooler.

Heat up new olive oil and add a teaspoon of mustard seeds. When the seeds starts to pop add cumin, coriander, turmeric and chili flakes. Sauté for ½ a minute before adding the chopped onion and one or two cloves of chopped garlic. Slice the fresh tomatoes and add them to the onions as they are getting soft. Sauté for a short moment before adding the shrimp water. Cover and cook for 3-4 minutes. Add the cream and bring it to the boil. Lower the heat and season with paprika powder, thyme, salt and pepper. The stew should have a nice balance of sweet and spiciness. Just before serving add the shrimps, chopped cilantro, dill and the red pepper. The red pepper should be crispy.

Serve with rice and a simple salad (I often do arugula with apples and walnuts).